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11,060 ft · Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

Diadem Peak

Diadem Peak is an 11,060 ft peak in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta. The standard route is the South Ridge: 13 mi, 6,266 ft of gain, Class 4.

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Diadem Peak in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

Diadem Peak at a glance

  • Elevation11,060 ft3,371 m
  • RouteSouth RidgeClass 4
  • Distance13 mi6,266 ft gain
  • Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeWinston Churchill RangeAlberta

Climbing the South Ridge

Drive the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) to the roadside start 12.5 km north of the Columbia Icefield Centre. Ford the braided Sunwapta River (knee to thigh deep in summer) and follow a cairned climbers' trail up Woolley Creek to camp by the tarn below the peaks. Climb snow couloirs and glacier to the Woolley-Diadem col, then the South Ridge to the snow summit and an exposed rock step to the true top (Class 4, AD-/AD). Seracs calve onto the lower glacier. Most add Mount Woolley the same day, 2-3 days total. A Parks Canada pass is required, plus a Parks Canada wilderness pass for the Mt. Alberta random camping area (one group per day).

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Stream crossing
  • Serac fall
  • Steep exposure
  • Cornices
  • Crevasses

Quests with Diadem Peak

Peaks near Diadem Peak

  1. Mount Woolley

    Mount Woolley

    11,171 ft · 1.0 mi away

  2. Mount Alberta

    Mount Alberta

    11,873 ft · 2.8 mi away

  3. Stutfield East

    Stutfield East

    11,227 ft · 4.2 mi away

  4. Stutfield Peak

    Stutfield Peak

    11,348 ft · 5.0 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Diadem Peak?

Diadem Peak is 11,060 feet (3,371 m) tall. It is in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta.

How does Diadem Peak rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,060 feet, Diadem Peak is the 45th highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Diadem Peak?

The South Ridge is Class 4, which means exposed scrambling, where many parties bring a rope. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 13 miles with 6,266 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Diadem Peak?

Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the South Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Diadem Peak dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need a rope to climb Diadem Peak?

Most parties bring one. The South Ridge is Class 4, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.

When is the best time to climb Diadem Peak?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Diadem Peak with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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