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11,873 ft · Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

Mount Alberta

Mount Alberta is an 11,873 ft peak in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta. The standard route is the Japanese Route: 20 mi, 10,217 ft of gain, Class 5.

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Mount Alberta in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

Mount Alberta at a glance

  • Elevation11,873 ft3,618 m
  • RouteJapanese RouteClass 5
  • Distance20 mi10,217 ft gain
  • Time3 – 5 daysExtreme effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeWinston Churchill RangeAlberta

Climbing the Japanese Route

Drive the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) to the roadside start 12.5 km north of the Columbia Icefield Centre. Ford the braided Sunwapta River, follow Woolley Creek and cross Woolley Shoulder to the Mt. Alberta Hut, then climb loose ledges to a bivy. The Japanese Route is Class 5 (V 5.6, D/D+): pitches of poor rock, a 20 m step on the summit ridge, and rappels down the route. Rockfall is serious; go only when the upper peak is dry. Plan 3-5 days. A Parks Canada pass is required, plus a Parks Canada wilderness pass for the bivy, booked by phone.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Rockfall
  • Loose rock
  • Technical climbing
  • Stream crossing
  • Remote location

Quests with Mount Alberta

Peaks near Mount Alberta

  1. Mount Woolley

    Mount Woolley

    11,171 ft · 2.2 mi away

  2. Diadem Peak

    Diadem Peak

    11,060 ft · 2.8 mi away

  3. Twins Tower

    Twins Tower

    11,900 ft · 4.2 mi away

  4. Stutfield Peak

    Stutfield Peak

    11,348 ft · 4.5 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Alberta?

Mount Alberta is 11,873 feet (3,618 m) tall. It is in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta.

How does Mount Alberta rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,873 feet, Mount Alberta is the 6th highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount Alberta?

The Japanese Route is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 20 miles with 10,217 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Mount Alberta?

Most climbers plan 3 – 5 days for the Japanese Route, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Mount Alberta dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: rockfall from loose rock. Go with an experienced partner, wear a helmet, test holds before you trust them and turn back if the rock is wet or icy.

Do you need a rope to climb Mount Alberta?

Most parties bring one. The Japanese Route is Class 5, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.

When is the best time to climb Mount Alberta?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Alberta with Yak

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