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- Dufourspitze
15,203 ft · Monte Rosa Massif, Switzerland
Dufourspitze
Dufourspitze is a 15,203 ft peak in the Monte Rosa Massif, Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via West Ridge: 19 mi, 6,673 ft of gain, PD+.
Dufourspitze at a glance
- Elevation15,203 ft4,633 m
- RouteNormal Route via West RidgePD+
- Distance19 mi6,673 ft gain
- Time2–3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeMonte Rosa MassifSwitzerland
Climbing the Normal Route via West Ridge
From Zermatt, Switzerland, ride the Gornergrat railway to Rotenboden, cross the Gorner Glacier to the Monte Rosa Hut (2,883 m), and summit the next day. The Normal Route via the West Ridge (PD+, some sources AD-) grinds up the crevassed NW flank in the dark, then finishes on 275 m of airy ridge with mixed climbing to UIAA III/IV and a short fixed rope. More technical than Mont Blanc but far less sustained than the Matterhorn. Watch crevasses, rockfall, and icy summit rock. Summit day is about 1,751 m from the Monte Rosa Hut.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
Approach Shoes- Slings
- Nut Tool
- Cams / Nuts
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Steep exposure
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- Icy summit conditions
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Dufourspitze
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Dufourspitze
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Dufourspitze?
Dufourspitze is 15,203 feet (4,633 m) tall. It is in the Monte Rosa Massif, Switzerland.
How does Dufourspitze rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 15,203 feet, Dufourspitze is the 3rd highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Dufourspitze?
The Normal Route via West Ridge is graded PD+ on the alpine scale, meaning slightly difficult: some scrambling, steeper snow or simple glacier travel. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 19 miles with 6,673 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Dufourspitze?
Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Normal Route via West Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Dufourspitze dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Dufourspitze?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via West Ridge for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Dufourspitze?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Dufourspitze reaches 15,203 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Dufourspitze?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Dufourspitze with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list