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- Zumsteinspitze
14,970 ft · Monte Rosa Massif, Italy/Switzerland
Zumsteinspitze
Zumsteinspitze is a 14,970 ft peak in the Monte Rosa Massif, Italy/Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via Lys Glacier: 9 mi, 4,226 ft of gain, PD.
Zumsteinspitze at a glance
- Elevation14,970 ft4,562 m
- RouteNormal Route via Lys GlacierPD
- Distance9 mi4,226 ft gain
- Time2–3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeMonte Rosa MassifItaly/Switzerland
Climbing the Normal Route via Lys Glacier
From Alagna Valsesia, Italy, ride the lifts to Punta Indren and walk to the Gnifetti Hut (3,611 m). The Normal Route via the Lys Glacier (PD) is usually collected on the Monte Rosa circuit rather than climbed alone, linked with Signalkuppe, Parrotspitze and Ludwigshohe in one outing. It is entirely glaciated and technically straightforward, so the difficulty is altitude and crevasse navigation on the Lys and Grenz glaciers. Reckon on about 5 hours to the summit, roughly 952 m of gain from Gnifetti. It shares its outing with the circuit peaks; log distance and gain once.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (25–35 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Offline Maps
Power Bank
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Steep exposure
- Cornices
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Zumsteinspitze
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Zumsteinspitze
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Zumsteinspitze?
Zumsteinspitze is 14,970 feet (4,562 m) tall. It is in the Monte Rosa Massif, Italy/Switzerland.
How does Zumsteinspitze rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 14,970 feet, Zumsteinspitze is the 5th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Zumsteinspitze?
The Normal Route via Lys Glacier is graded PD on the alpine scale, meaning slightly difficult: some scrambling, steeper snow or simple glacier travel. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 9 miles with 4,226 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Zumsteinspitze?
Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Normal Route via Lys Glacier, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Zumsteinspitze dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Zumsteinspitze?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via Lys Glacier for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Zumsteinspitze?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Zumsteinspitze reaches 14,970 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Zumsteinspitze?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Zumsteinspitze with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list