- …
- Yak
- Quests
- Alpine 4,000ers
- Lauteraarhorn
13,261 ft · Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Lauteraarhorn
Lauteraarhorn is a 13,261 ft peak in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via SE Ridge: 16 mi, 7,001 ft of gain, AD.
Lauteraarhorn at a glance
- Elevation13,261 ft4,041 m
- RouteNormal Route via SE RidgeAD
- Distance16 mi7,001 ft gain
- Time2–3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeBernese AlpsSwitzerland
Climbing the Normal Route via SE Ridge
From the Grimsel, Switzerland, approach the Lauteraarhutte, then summit the Schreckhorn's neighbour, a notably remote objective, by the SE ridge (AD) with mixed climbing. The classic outing here is the Schreckhorn to Lauteraarhorn traverse, a long and committing ridge day that links both 4,000ers; climbed alone, the Lauteraarhorn is chiefly an exercise in isolation and glacier travel. Rope up for the crevassed glacier and watch rockfall and cornices on the crest. Start early given the long day and slow retreat. Budget 2 to 3 days for the outing.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
Approach Shoes- Slings
- Nut Tool
- Cams / Nuts
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Knife-edge ridge
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Cornices
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- High altitude
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Altitude sickness
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Lauteraarhorn
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Lauteraarhorn
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Lauteraarhorn?
Lauteraarhorn is 13,261 feet (4,041 m) tall. It is in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland.
How does Lauteraarhorn rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,261 feet, Lauteraarhorn is the 70th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Lauteraarhorn?
The Normal Route via SE Ridge is graded AD on the alpine scale, meaning fairly difficult: sustained snow, ice or rock that needs real climbing skills. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 16 miles with 7,001 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Lauteraarhorn?
Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Normal Route via SE Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Lauteraarhorn dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Lauteraarhorn?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via SE Ridge for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Lauteraarhorn?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Lauteraarhorn reaches 13,261 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Lauteraarhorn?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Lauteraarhorn with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list