- …
- Yak
- Quests
- Alpine 4,000ers
- Schreckhorn
13,379 ft · Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Schreckhorn
Schreckhorn is a 13,379 ft peak in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via SW Ridge: 15 mi, 9,987 ft of gain, AD+.
Schreckhorn at a glance
- Elevation13,379 ft4,077 m
- RouteNormal Route via SW RidgeAD+
- Distance15 mi9,987 ft gain
- Time3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeBernese AlpsSwitzerland
Climbing the Normal Route via SW Ridge
From Grindelwald, Switzerland, walk about 6 hours to the Schreckhornhutte, then summit the northernmost 4,000er in the Alps, generally regarded as the hardest in the Bernese Oberland. The Sudwestgrat normal route (AD+) is one of the finest rock ridges in the range, but the day is long: guidebooks quote 1,700 m and around 13 hours from the hut. With the hut approach itself, three days is the realistic budget. The Schrecksattel area takes rockfall as the sun comes round, so start in the dark and move fast. Watch cornices on the crest.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
Approach Shoes- Slings
- Nut Tool
- Cams / Nuts
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Knife-edge ridge
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Cornices
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- High altitude
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Altitude sickness
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Schreckhorn
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Schreckhorn
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Schreckhorn?
Schreckhorn is 13,379 feet (4,077 m) tall. It is in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland.
How does Schreckhorn rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,379 feet, Schreckhorn is the 56th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Schreckhorn?
The Normal Route via SW Ridge is graded AD+ on the alpine scale, meaning fairly difficult: sustained snow, ice or rock that needs real climbing skills. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 15 miles with 9,987 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Schreckhorn?
Most climbers plan 3 days for the Normal Route via SW Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Schreckhorn dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Schreckhorn?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via SW Ridge for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Schreckhorn?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Schreckhorn reaches 13,379 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Schreckhorn?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Schreckhorn with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list