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14,695 ft · Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland

Lyskamm West

Lyskamm West is a 14,695 ft peak in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland. The standard route is the Liskamm Traverse: 13 mi, 4,600 ft of gain, AD.

Lyskamm West in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland

Lyskamm West at a glance

  • Elevation14,695 ft4,479 m
  • RouteLiskamm TraverseAD
  • Distance13 mi4,600 ft gain
  • Time2–3 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul–Sep
  • RangeWallis AlpsItaly/Switzerland

Climbing the Liskamm Traverse

From Alagna Valsesia, Italy, take the lifts to Punta Indren and walk to the Gnifetti Hut (3,611 m). The western summit is reached on the same Liskamm Traverse (AD) as the eastern top, the two separated by the notoriously corniced connecting ridge with huge drops on the Italian side. It can also be climbed alone from the Felikjoch by the west ridge, but the traverse is the standard outing. Cornice collapse is the governing hazard, so gauge conditions and rope short. It shares one set of distance and gain figures with the eastern summit; count them once per trip.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (40–55 L)
  • Mountaineering Boots
  • Crampons
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Carabiners
  • Belay Device
  • Prusik Cord
  • Ice Screw
  • Base Layer
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Hardshell Pants
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Glacier Glasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Headlamp
  • GPS Device
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Water
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Heavyweight Gloves
  • Goggles
  • Offline Maps
  • Power Bank
  • Whistle
  • Approach Shoes
  • Slings
  • Nut Tool
  • Cams / Nuts

What to watch for

  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Cornices
  • Steep exposure
  • Knife-edge ridge
  • Snow near summit
  • Ice near summit
  • High altitude
  • Altitude sickness
  • Extreme cold
  • High winds
  • Storms
  • Low visibility
  • Rapid weather shifts

Quests with Lyskamm West

Peaks near Lyskamm West

  1. Lyskamm

    Lyskamm

    14,852 ft · 0.7 mi away

  2. Castor

    Castor

    13,855 ft · 1.5 mi away

  3. Pollux

    Pollux

    13,425 ft · 1.8 mi away

  4. Schwarzhorn

    Schwarzhorn

    14,180 ft · 2.0 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Lyskamm West?

Lyskamm West is 14,695 feet (4,479 m) tall. It is in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland. It is also known as Lyskamm (Western Summit), Western Summit, Liskamm.

How does Lyskamm West rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?

At 14,695 feet, Lyskamm West is the 11th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.

How hard is it to climb Lyskamm West?

The Liskamm Traverse is graded AD on the alpine scale, meaning fairly difficult: sustained snow, ice or rock that needs real climbing skills. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 13 miles with 4,600 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Lyskamm West?

Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Liskamm Traverse, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Lyskamm West dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Lyskamm West?

Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Liskamm Traverse for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

Do you need to acclimatize to climb Lyskamm West?

Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Lyskamm West reaches 14,695 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.

When is the best time to climb Lyskamm West?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Lyskamm West with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list