27,838 ft · Himalayas, Nepal Border
Makalu
Makalu is a 27,838 ft peak in the Himalayas, Nepal Border. The standard route is the Northwest Ridge: 30 mi, 11,860 ft of gain, Class 5.
Makalu at a glance
- Elevation27,838 ft8,485 m
- RouteNorthwest RidgeClass 5
- Distance30 mi11,860 ft gain
- Time7 – 9 wksExtreme effort
- SeasonApr – May
- RangeHimalayasNepal Border
Climbing the Northwest Ridge
Fly to Lukla, Nepal, then trek through the remote Barun Valley to basecamp over 10-14 days. The west pillar or northwest ridge (via Makalu La) are standard routes. Full expedition logistics required with high camps and fixed ropes. Extremely technical with serious exposure and ice climbing required. Weather windows are brief in spring (April-May). One of the more challenging 8000-meter peaks requiring extensive previous experience. Nepali permits expensive. The fifth highest mountain on Earth. The remote approach adds to the commitment. Only for elite, well-prepared expeditions.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (65–85 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Expedition Mittens
Trekking Poles
Gaiters
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Rope
Harness
Carabiners
Belay Device
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
Sleeping Bag (-40°F to -20°F)
Sleeping Pad
Oxygen System
Water
First-Aid Kit
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Two-Way Radio
Emergency Bivy
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Down Suit
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- High altitude
- Storms
- Remote location
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Altitude sickness
- Avalanches
- Rockfall
Quests with Makalu
Eight ThousandersPeaks near Makalu
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Makalu?
Makalu is 27,838 feet (8,485 m) tall. It is in the Himalayas, Nepal Border.
How does Makalu rank among the Eight Thousanders?
At 27,838 feet, Makalu is the 5th highest of the 14 Eight Thousanders. The highest is Mount Everest.
How hard is it to climb Makalu?
The Northwest Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 30 miles with 11,860 feet of elevation gain.
How long does it take to climb Makalu?
Makalu is an expedition: most climbers plan 7 – 9 weeks for the Northwest Ridge, much of it spent acclimatizing between camps.
Is Makalu dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need oxygen to climb Makalu?
Most climbers use it. Supplemental oxygen is on the gear list for the Northwest Ridge, and only a small number of very experienced climbers summit without it.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Makalu?
Yes. At 27,838 feet, Makalu is high enough for serious altitude illness. Climbers acclimatize over days or weeks, climbing high and sleeping low, and descend at the first signs of trouble.
When is the best time to climb Makalu?
The usual climbing window is April to May. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Where can I check avalanche conditions for Makalu?
Check the avalanche forecast at dhm.gov.np before any trip with snow on the route.
Can you hire a guide to climb Makalu?
Yes. Guide services that lead climbs of Makalu include Seven Summit Treks and 8K Expeditions.
Climb Makalu with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list