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- Mont Blanc du Tacul
13,937 ft · Mont Blanc Group, France
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Mont Blanc du Tacul is a 13,937 ft peak in the Mont Blanc Group, France. The standard route is the Normal Route via North Face: 5 mi, 2,349 ft of gain, PD.
Mont Blanc du Tacul at a glance
- Elevation13,937 ft4,247 m
- RouteNormal Route via North FacePD
- Distance5 mi2,349 ft gain
- Time2–3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJun–Sep
- RangeMont Blanc GroupFrance
Climbing the Normal Route via North Face
From Chamonix, France, ride the Aiguille du Midi cable car and stay at the Cosmiques Hut, then climb the north face (PD), the first of the three summits on the Trois Monts route and the most serac-threatened. The face is crossed beneath large ice cliffs that have produced repeated fatal accidents, so move fast and early; the line shifts year to year as the seracs change. It is frequently climbed alone as an acclimatisation objective from the Midi. Watch crevasses throughout. The gain reflects the descent from the Midi and the re-ascent to the summit.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Cornices
- Steep exposure
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
- Serac fall
Quests with Mont Blanc du Tacul
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Mont Blanc du Tacul
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Mont Blanc du Tacul?
Mont Blanc du Tacul is 13,937 feet (4,247 m) tall. It is in the Mont Blanc Group, France.
How does Mont Blanc du Tacul rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 13,937 feet, Mont Blanc du Tacul is the 24th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Mont Blanc du Tacul?
The Normal Route via North Face is graded PD on the alpine scale, meaning slightly difficult: some scrambling, steeper snow or simple glacier travel. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 5 miles with 2,349 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Mont Blanc du Tacul?
Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Normal Route via North Face, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Mont Blanc du Tacul dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Mont Blanc du Tacul?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via North Face for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Mont Blanc du Tacul?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Mont Blanc du Tacul reaches 13,937 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Mont Blanc du Tacul?
The usual climbing window is June to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Mont Blanc du Tacul with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list