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11,135 ft · Murchison Group, Alberta

Mount Hector

Mount Hector is an 11,135 ft peak in the Murchison Group, Alberta. The standard route is the Hector Glacier: 8 mi, 5,085 ft of gain, Class 5.

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Mount Hector in the Murchison Group, Alberta

Mount Hector at a glance

  • Elevation11,135 ft3,393 m
  • RouteHector GlacierClass 5
  • Distance8 mi5,085 ft gain
  • Time10 – 12 hrsVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeMurchison GroupAlberta

Climbing the Hector Glacier

From Lake Louise, drive about 19 km north on the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) to the small Mount Hector pull-out. Climb steep slopes above Hector Creek, traverse below Little Hector to the Hector Glacier, then rope up for the crevassed glacier to the summit block. The route is PD+, and the shrinking ice has left a low 5th-class rock step guarding the true summit. The classic ascent is a spring ski tour (April to May) with real avalanche exposure on the approach; summer means open crevasses. Expect a 7 to 9 hour day and a full lot on good weekends. A Parks Canada pass is required.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (35–55 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Avalanches
  • Ice near summit

Quests with Mount Hector

Peaks near Mount Hector

  1. Mount Willingdon

    Mount Willingdon

    11,076 ft · 12.5 mi away

  2. Mount Victoria North Peak

    Mount Victoria North Peak

    11,207 ft · 13.3 mi away

  3. Mount Victoria

    Mount Victoria

    11,365 ft · 13.9 mi away

  4. Mount Huber

    Mount Huber

    10,984 ft · 14.4 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Hector?

Mount Hector is 11,135 feet (3,393 m) tall. It is in the Murchison Group, Alberta.

How does Mount Hector rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,135 feet, Mount Hector is the 41st highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount Hector?

The Hector Glacier is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 8 miles with 5,085 feet of elevation gain.

How long does it take to climb Mount Hector?

Most people take 10 – 12 hours round trip on the Hector Glacier, covering 8 miles with 5,085 feet of elevation gain. That is a long day, so start before dawn and set a turnaround time.

Is Mount Hector dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger and crevasses on the glacier. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need an ice axe for Mount Hector?

Plan on it. An ice axe is on the gear list for the Hector Glacier for the snow and ice on the upper mountain. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

When is the best time to climb Mount Hector?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Hector with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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