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12,087 ft · Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

North Twin

North Twin is a 12,087 ft peak in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta. The standard route is the East Slopes: 26 mi, 8,202 ft of gain, Class 3.

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North Twin in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta

North Twin at a glance

  • Elevation12,087 ft3,684 m
  • RouteEast SlopesClass 3
  • Distance26 mi8,202 ft gain
  • Time3 – 4 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeWinston Churchill RangeAlberta

Climbing the East Slopes

From Jasper or Lake Louise, take the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) to the Toe of the Glacier lot by the Columbia Icefield Centre. Ski the Athabasca Glacier past its icefalls and Snow Dome seracs to camp near the Twins-Stutfield col. The East Slopes are a Class 3 glacier and snow ascent that can be skied nearly to the top, one of the easier icefield summits. Parties usually link Twins Tower, South Twin and West Twin from the same camp. Crevasses, wind and whiteouts are the main hazards. Plan 3-4 days in April-May. A Parks Canada pass and a Parks Canada wilderness pass (Icefields random camping, by phone) are required.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet

What to watch for

  • Crevasses
  • Serac fall
  • Glacier travel
  • High winds
  • Remote location

Quests with North Twin

Peaks near North Twin

  1. Twins Tower

    Twins Tower

    11,900 ft · 0.8 mi away

  2. South Twin

    South Twin

    11,699 ft · 1.4 mi away

  3. Stutfield Peak

    Stutfield Peak

    11,348 ft · 1.5 mi away

  4. Stutfield East

    Stutfield East

    11,227 ft · 2.9 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is North Twin?

North Twin is 12,087 feet (3,684 m) tall. It is in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta. It is also known as North Twin Peak.

How does North Twin rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 12,087 feet, North Twin is the 3rd highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb North Twin?

The East Slopes is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 26 miles with 8,202 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb North Twin?

Most climbers plan 3 – 4 days for the East Slopes, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is North Twin dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and fast-changing weather. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need an ice axe for North Twin?

Plan on it. An ice axe is on the gear list for the East Slopes. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

Do you need to acclimatize to climb North Twin?

Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and North Twin reaches 12,087 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.

When is the best time to climb North Twin?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb North Twin with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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