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- South Twin
11,699 ft · Winston Churchill Range, Alberta
South Twin
South Twin is an 11,699 ft peak in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta. The standard route is the North Ridge: 27 mi, 6,890 ft of gain, Class 3.
South Twin at a glance
- Elevation11,699 ft3,565 m
- RouteNorth RidgeClass 3
- Distance27 mi6,890 ft gain
- Time3 – 4 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJul – Sep
- RangeWinston Churchill RangeAlberta
Climbing the North Ridge
From Jasper or Lake Louise, take the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) to the Toe of the Glacier lot by the Columbia Icefield Centre. Ski the Athabasca Glacier past its icefalls and Snow Dome seracs to camp near the Twins-Stutfield col. From the North Twin glacier, the North Ridge is Class 3: crevassed glacier, a steep snow or low-angle ice slope, then an exposed narrow ridge to the summit. Bring an ice axe, crampons and a couple of screws for bare ice. Most parties pair it with West Twin and North Twin. Plan 3-4 days in April-May. A Parks Canada pass and a Parks Canada wilderness pass (Icefields random camping, by phone) are required.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (55–75 L)
Hiking Boots
Water
Offline Maps
Headlamp
Satellite Communicator
Whistle
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Sun Hat
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Trekking Poles
GPS Device
Power Bank
Water Filter
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Ice Axe
Helmet
What to watch for
- Crevasses
- Knife-edge ridge
- Ice near summit
- Serac fall
- Remote location
Quests with South Twin
Canadian Rockies 11,000ersPeaks near South Twin
Frequently asked questions
How tall is South Twin?
South Twin is 11,699 feet (3,565 m) tall. It is in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta. It is also known as South Twin Peak.
How does South Twin rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?
At 11,699 feet, South Twin is the 10th highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.
How hard is it to climb South Twin?
The North Ridge is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 27 miles with 6,890 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb South Twin?
Most climbers plan 3 – 4 days for the North Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is South Twin dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need an ice axe for South Twin?
Plan on it. An ice axe is on the gear list for the North Ridge for the snow and ice on the upper mountain. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
When is the best time to climb South Twin?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb South Twin with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list