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13,684 ft · Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland

Dent d'Hérens

Dent d'Hérens is a 13,684 ft peak in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland. The standard route is the Normal Route via West Face: 14 mi, 7,106 ft of gain, AD.

Dent d'Hérens in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland

Dent d'Hérens at a glance

  • Elevation13,684 ft4,170 m
  • RouteNormal Route via West FaceAD
  • Distance14 mi7,106 ft gain
  • Time2–3 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul–Sep
  • RangeWallis AlpsItaly/Switzerland

Climbing the Normal Route via West Face

From Prarayer in the Valpelline above Aosta, Italy, approach the Aosta Hut, then climb the west face and Tiefmatten ridge (AD), the Matterhorn's quieter neighbour and a far less trafficked mountain. The mixed ground is serious, and the glacier approach grows more broken as the ice recedes, so route-finding and crevasse care matter. It is remote, long, and committing, with a slow retreat and no cable car anywhere near the base, so a firm turnaround and settled weather are essential. Watch rockfall on the mixed sections. Budget 2 to 3 days for the outing.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (40–55 L)
  • Mountaineering Boots
  • Crampons
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Carabiners
  • Belay Device
  • Prusik Cord
  • Ice Screw
  • Base Layer
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Hardshell Pants
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Glacier Glasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Headlamp
  • GPS Device
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Water
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Heavyweight Gloves
  • Goggles
  • Offline Maps
  • Power Bank
  • Whistle
  • Approach Shoes
  • Slings
  • Nut Tool
  • Cams / Nuts

What to watch for

  • Technical climbing
  • Steep exposure
  • Rockfall
  • Loose rock
  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Snow near summit
  • Ice near summit
  • High altitude
  • Altitude sickness
  • Extreme cold
  • High winds
  • Storms
  • Low visibility
  • Rapid weather shifts

Quests with Dent d'Hérens

Peaks near Dent d'Hérens

  1. Matterhorn

    Matterhorn

    14,692 ft · 2.6 mi away

  2. Dent Blanche

    Dent Blanche

    14,295 ft · 4.4 mi away

  3. Ober Gabelhorn

    Ober Gabelhorn

    13,330 ft · 5.6 mi away

  4. Breithorn

    Breithorn

    13,661 ft · 7.1 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Dent d'Hérens?

Dent d'Hérens is 13,684 feet (4,170 m) tall. It is in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland.

How does Dent d'Hérens rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?

At 13,684 feet, Dent d'Hérens is the 38th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.

How hard is it to climb Dent d'Hérens?

The Normal Route via West Face is graded AD on the alpine scale, meaning fairly difficult: sustained snow, ice or rock that needs real climbing skills. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 14 miles with 7,106 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Dent d'Hérens?

Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Normal Route via West Face, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Dent d'Hérens dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Dent d'Hérens?

Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Normal Route via West Face for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

Do you need to acclimatize to climb Dent d'Hérens?

Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Dent d'Hérens reaches 13,684 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.

When is the best time to climb Dent d'Hérens?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Dent d'Hérens with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list