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14,692 ft · Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland
Matterhorn
Matterhorn is a 14,692 ft peak in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland. The standard route is the Hörnli Ridge: 7 mi, 6,217 ft of gain, AD.
Matterhorn at a glance
- Elevation14,692 ft4,478 m
- RouteHörnli RidgeAD
- Distance7 mi6,217 ft gain
- Time2–3 daysExtreme effort
- SeasonJul–Sep
- RangeWallis AlpsItaly/Switzerland
Climbing the Hörnli Ridge
From Zermatt, Switzerland, take the Schwarzsee lift and approach the Hornlihutte (3,260 m), then summit the next morning. The Hornli Ridge, the Hornligrat (AD), gives 1,220 m of sustained UIAA III rock and mixed ground and is climbed at speed; parties must move continuously to beat afternoon storms, and the upper fixed ropes bottleneck badly in high season. Route-finding errors on the lower ridge cause most incidents, so know the line. It carries one of the highest cumulative fatality counts in the Alps. Summit day is 1,220 m from the Hornlihutte.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (25–35 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Approach Shoes- Via Ferrata Set
- Slings
- Nut Tool
Heavyweight Gloves
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
What to watch for
- Technical climbing
- Steep exposure
- Rockfall
- Loose rock
- Route-finding difficulty
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- Icy summit conditions
- High altitude
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Altitude sickness
Quests with Matterhorn
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Matterhorn
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Matterhorn?
Matterhorn is 14,692 feet (4,478 m) tall. It is in the Wallis Alps, Italy/Switzerland.
How does Matterhorn rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 14,692 feet, Matterhorn is the 12th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Matterhorn?
The Hörnli Ridge is graded AD on the alpine scale, meaning fairly difficult: sustained snow, ice or rock that needs real climbing skills. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 7 miles with 6,217 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Matterhorn?
Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Hörnli Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Matterhorn dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier, exposed sections where a fall would be serious and rockfall from loose rock. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Matterhorn?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Hörnli Ridge for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Matterhorn?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Matterhorn reaches 14,692 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Matterhorn?
The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Matterhorn with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list