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14,649 ft · Mont Blanc Group, France/Italy
Mont Maudit
Mont Maudit is a 14,649 ft peak in the Mont Blanc Group, France/Italy. The standard route is the Trois Monts Route: 6 mi, 3,547 ft of gain, AD.
Mont Maudit at a glance
- Elevation14,649 ft4,465 m
- RouteTrois Monts RouteAD
- Distance6 mi3,547 ft gain
- Time2–3 daysVery Hard effort
- SeasonJun–Sep
- RangeMont Blanc GroupFrance/Italy
Climbing the Trois Monts Route
From Chamonix, France, ride the Aiguille du Midi cable car and stay at the Cosmiques Hut, then climb the Trois Monts route (AD), the Midi alternative to the Gouter, linking Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc. The gain figure understates the effort badly: the route drops sharply off the Midi and re-ascends repeatedly, so cumulative climbing far exceeds the lift-to-summit difference. The traverse below the Mont Maudit serac barrier and the steep couloir onto the Col du Mont Maudit are the crux hazards. The full Trois Monts route to Mont Blanc is about 1,700 m from the Cosmiques Hut.
Gear and hazards
What to bring
Backpack (40–55 L)
Mountaineering Boots
Crampons
Ice Axe
Helmet
Harness
Rope
Carabiners
Belay Device- Prusik Cord
- Ice Screw
Base Layer
Midlayer
Insulated Jacket
Hardshell Jacket
Hardshell Pants
Warm Hat
Buff
Midweight Gloves
Glacier Glasses
Sunscreen
Headlamp
GPS Device
Satellite Communicator
Water
First-Aid Kit
Emergency Bivy
Heavyweight Gloves
Goggles
Offline Maps
Power Bank
Whistle
What to watch for
- Glacier travel
- Crevasses
- Serac fall
- Avalanches
- Steep exposure
- Snow near summit
- Ice near summit
- High altitude
- Altitude sickness
- Extreme cold
- High winds
- Storms
- Low visibility
- Rapid weather shifts
Quests with Mont Maudit
Alpine 4,000ersPeaks near Mont Maudit
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Mont Maudit?
Mont Maudit is 14,649 feet (4,465 m) tall. It is in the Mont Blanc Group, France/Italy.
How does Mont Maudit rank among the Alpine 4,000ers?
At 14,649 feet, Mont Maudit is the 14th highest of the 82 Alpine 4,000ers. The highest is Mont Blanc.
How hard is it to climb Mont Maudit?
The Trois Monts Route is graded AD on the alpine scale, meaning fairly difficult: sustained snow, ice or rock that needs real climbing skills. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 6 miles with 3,547 feet of elevation gain.
How many days does it take to climb Mont Maudit?
Most climbers plan 2–3 days for the Trois Monts Route, with at least one night on the mountain.
Is Mont Maudit dangerous to climb?
It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and exposed sections where a fall would be serious. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.
Do you need crampons and an ice axe for Mont Maudit?
Plan on it. Crampons and an ice axe are on the gear list for the Trois Monts Route for the snow and ice on the upper mountain, along with mountaineering boots that take crampons. Glacier travel also means a rope, harness and crevasse rescue skills. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.
Do you need to acclimatize to climb Mont Maudit?
Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Mont Maudit reaches 14,649 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.
When is the best time to climb Mont Maudit?
The usual climbing window is June to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.
Climb Mont Maudit with Yak
Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list