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12,293 ft · Winston Churchill Range, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount Columbia

Mount Columbia is a 12,293 ft peak in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta/British Columbia. The standard route is the East Face: 26 mi, 8,202 ft of gain, Class 3.

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Mount Columbia in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount Columbia at a glance

  • Elevation12,293 ft3,746 m
  • RouteEast FaceClass 3
  • Distance26 mi8,202 ft gain
  • Time2 – 3 daysVery Hard effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangeWinston Churchill RangeAlberta/British Columbia

Climbing the East Face

From Jasper or Lake Louise, drive the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) to the Toe of the Glacier lot across from the Columbia Icefield Centre (start at the Centre when the road is closed). Ski up the Athabasca Glacier around three icefalls and under the Snow Dome seracs, cross the icefield and camp in the Trench. The East Face is a Class 3 snow climb to 40-45 degrees (AD-/AD) above a bergschrund. Rope up for crevasses and expect whiteouts. Most parties ski it in April-May over 2-3 days. A Parks Canada pass and a Parks Canada wilderness pass (Icefields random camping, booked by phone) are required.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Ice Axe
  • Helmet

What to watch for

  • Crevasses
  • Serac fall
  • Glacier travel
  • Low visibility
  • Rapid weather shifts

Quests with Mount Columbia

Peaks near Mount Columbia

  1. Mount King Edward

    Mount King Edward

    11,329 ft · 3.4 mi away

  2. South Twin

    South Twin

    11,699 ft · 3.9 mi away

  3. North Twin

    North Twin

    12,087 ft · 5.3 mi away

  4. Twins Tower

    Twins Tower

    11,900 ft · 5.7 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount Columbia?

Mount Columbia is 12,293 feet (3,746 m) tall. It is in the Winston Churchill Range, Alberta/British Columbia.

How does Mount Columbia rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 12,293 feet, Mount Columbia is the 2nd highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount Columbia?

The East Face is Class 3, which means scrambling, where you use your hands to climb and a fall could be serious. Yak rates the overall effort very hard: 26 miles with 8,202 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Mount Columbia?

Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the East Face, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Mount Columbia dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: avalanche and icefall danger, crevasses on the glacier and fast-changing weather. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need an ice axe for Mount Columbia?

Plan on it. An ice axe is on the gear list for the East Face. Conditions vary through the season, so check recent reports before you go.

Do you need to acclimatize to climb Mount Columbia?

Most people feel the altitude above 8,000 feet, and Mount Columbia reaches 12,293 feet. Spend a night or two at elevation first, drink plenty of water and turn back if a headache, nausea or dizziness gets worse.

When is the best time to climb Mount Columbia?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount Columbia with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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