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11,329 ft · Park Ranges, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount King Edward

Mount King Edward is an 11,329 ft peak in the Park Ranges, Alberta/British Columbia. The standard route is the Southwest Face and South Ridge: 18 mi, 8,202 ft of gain, Class 5.

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Mount King Edward in the Park Ranges, Alberta/British Columbia

Mount King Edward at a glance

  • Elevation11,329 ft3,453 m
  • RouteSouthwest Face and South RidgeClass 5
  • Distance18 mi8,202 ft gain
  • Time2 – 3 daysExtreme effort
  • SeasonJul – Sep
  • RangePark RangesAlberta/British Columbia

Climbing the Southwest Face and South Ridge

From Golden, take Highway 1 west to Donald and follow the Bush River Forest Service Road about 100 km to its end at the upper Bush River. Ford the river, which can run chest deep in melt season, then climb onto the glacier and up the southwest face and south ridge (5.3, AD-/AD) through low fifth-class rock bands, finishing with a summit-block traverse and a 45 to 50 degree couloir. Crevasses, the river crossing and the remote setting are the main hazards; carry a rope, crampons and a small rack. Most parties take two to three days with a camp below the glacier. A spring ascent on firm snow is often preferred.

Gear and hazards

What to bring

  • Backpack (55–75 L)
  • Hiking Boots
  • Water
  • Offline Maps
  • Headlamp
  • Satellite Communicator
  • Whistle
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun Hat
  • Midlayer
  • Insulated Jacket
  • Hardshell Jacket
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff
  • Midweight Gloves
  • Trekking Poles
  • GPS Device
  • Power Bank
  • Water Filter
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Emergency Bivy
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Rope
  • Belay Device
  • Carabiners

What to watch for

  • Stream crossing
  • Glacier travel
  • Crevasses
  • Technical climbing
  • Remote location

Quests with Mount King Edward

Peaks near Mount King Edward

  1. Mount Columbia

    Mount Columbia

    12,293 ft · 3.4 mi away

  2. South Twin

    South Twin

    11,699 ft · 4.9 mi away

  3. Twins Tower

    Twins Tower

    11,900 ft · 5.8 mi away

  4. North Twin

    North Twin

    12,087 ft · 5.9 mi away

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Mount King Edward?

Mount King Edward is 11,329 feet (3,453 m) tall. It is in the Park Ranges, Alberta/British Columbia.

How does Mount King Edward rank among the Canadian Rockies 11,000ers?

At 11,329 feet, Mount King Edward is the 23rd highest of the 54 Canadian Rockies 11,000ers. The highest is Mount Robson.

How hard is it to climb Mount King Edward?

The Southwest Face and South Ridge is Class 5, which means technical climbing with a rope and protection. Yak rates the overall effort extreme: 18 miles with 8,202 feet of elevation gain.

How many days does it take to climb Mount King Edward?

Most climbers plan 2 – 3 days for the Southwest Face and South Ridge, with at least one night on the mountain.

Is Mount King Edward dangerous to climb?

It has real risks: crevasses on the glacier. Teams rope up for glacier travel, and many first-timers climb with a guide.

Do you need a rope to climb Mount King Edward?

Most parties bring one. The Southwest Face and South Ridge is Class 5, and the gear list includes a rope, harness and belay device.

When is the best time to climb Mount King Edward?

The usual climbing window is July to September. Outside it, expect snow, storms or closed access, and check the summit forecast before you go.

Climb Mount King Edward with Yak

Plan your route on a topo map, check the summit forecast, then log your climb and see what is left on your list

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